Winchester Virginia to Buena Vista Virginia

Today started out at 67F under blue skies. The tire pressures were fine. CNN told us that at 12:34:56 of 7/8/09 all the numbers would line up. Magical times. I had some leg cramps, probably from hiking the Overlook Trail yesterday.

Ron gets his luggage through his room window

We took 522 to Front Royal where we fueled up. Approaching the Skyline Drive, I accidentally took another wrong turn. One bad habit using a GPS is to look at it and disregard traffic signs. Eventually, we got on the Skyline after paying for a National Park Service pass.

Entrance to the Skyline Drive

At the first lookout, we met two riders from Trois Rivieres Quebec, one on an ST and the other on an FJ. Then, at the Visitor Center, we met two couples from Maine headed for Maggie Valley. We also met a family in a car from St. John New Brunswick and saw a tour bus full of Amish people. Ranger Jay told us to have fun and I told him that was limited by his 35 MPH signs. He told me I could ignore the signs because they need the money:-)

Ranger Jay

Further up the road, we stopped at an overlook to add some clothing. Despite our southbound direction, the GPS said we were headed north. Such is the winding nature of the Skyline.

Putting on warmer gear

We continued on down the road with very light traffic at close to the posted 35 MPH. We passed some bicycles, a few of which seemed to want the whole lane. We also got some spectacular views of the valley below and went through a couple of tunnels. At one point I rounded a curve to find a deer standing in the road. A few blasts from my horn and she jumped a stone wall and vanished.

View from an overlook

Bicycles on the Skyline

A tunnel

A curve

Another overlook

We stopped at Skyland Resort but they weren't serving lunch until noon. We continued on and stopped at The Meadows where we had a bite to eat. Ron took a little nap before lunch and Sandy got pictures of several deer near the parking lot. We met a couple from Louisiana who had just picked up a Wing trike in Omaha, Nebraska and were taking the long way home. After lunch, I talked to a lady ranger driving an enforcement vehicle and wearing a sidearm. She explained the difference between enforcement rangers and interpretive rangers.

Ron catching a power nap while waiting for lunch

A deer at The Meadows

We kept running into the New Brunswick family all the way down the line.

At the end of the Skyline we descended to Waynesboro for fuel. The town certainly looks like it has seen better days. We got out of there as soon as we could. back up the hill, we took the Blue Ridge Parkway south. The current plan is to cover all 469 miles to Cherokee in the next few days.

On the BRP, I started to get quite tired and my eyes started to fixate on the road. This resulted in some jerky riding and, 50 miles in, we decided to stop in Buena Vista. The ride down the hill to town was wild. I have never seen that many curves that super-elevated. It was a blast.

We checked in at the Buena Vista Motel and the desk jockey told us there was a restaurant a block down within walking distance. Some block. After a mile and a half walk, we had a nice Mexican dinner at Don Tequila's right downtown.

Buena Vista Motel

Laurie's 27 oz Margarita

Population of Buena Vista
(after the long walk, make that 9 old grouches)

After supper, we took a shortcut on Ron's GPS. We passed Southern Virginia University, a Mormon based school, but had some trouble because two of the cross streets in the FPS didn't exist. Eventually, though, perseverence won out and we got back to the motel.

Southern Virginia University gate

Back at the motel, we met two couples from Saskatchewan, Don & Bernie and Ross & Laurie. They are X Riders, members of the VTX Internet club, heading back north to a rally in Bruce Mines, Ontario of all places. We talked quite a while before turning in. Didn't get any useful blogging done today.

Today's Route


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Wellsboro Pennsylvania to Winchester Virginia

We were awake early to find radar showing a green, orange and red blob moving quickly towards Wellsboro. It hit about 6:00 AM with thunder, lightning and heavy rain. Fortunately, it wasn't a large storm and it cleared by 8:00 in time for us to wander over to Dunkin' Donuts for coffee and breakfast.

I was talking to the owner of the Sherwood about the very nice looking 1959 MGA he had. He said he really enjoyed the car but wanted to sell it and get a GoldWing.

By 8:45, we were loaded and rolling. I led down 287 and across 414 to US 15 South under partly cloudy skies. Mist was rising off the damp road as we traversed rolling hills through heavy trees. Laurie saw a deer and we took it easy just in case. We followed 15 to Williamsport where we made an early stop because someone had forgotten that a significant quantity of water plus a large coffee wasn't the best idea before riding.

South of Sunbury on 15, the vegetation changed. There were different kinds of trees and the vegetation was more lush with kudzu starting to become prevalent. It definitely had a more southern feel. One thing we found funny was a Wellsboro billboard on the southbound side when we all know the town is north. We followed 15 to I-81 at Harrisburg and then followed that, threading between some dark clouds, to Carline Pennsylvania where we stopped for lunch at Arby's. Ron found that Arby's idea of beef wasn't quite to his liking.

The Susquehanna River from US 15

Before leaving Carlisle, we took off some warm gear because the temperature was becoming quite warm. We also called ahead to the Super 8 in Winchester Virginia (where sandy and I stayed in 2007) and made reservations. Then we followed I-81 down into Maryland.

North of Hagerstown, Ron suggested that we jump off and take US 11, which parallels 81 but without all the big trucks. We did, which put us right into the heart of Hagerstown. This is a city with many old, historic buildings and has painted butterflies like the lamas in Ludlow, Vermont or the buffaloes in Custer, South Dakota.

Presbyterian Church in Hagerstown

A Hagerstown butterfly

And another one

In Hagerstown, I misread an intersection and, instead of leaving town on US 11, we found ourselves heading south on Maryland 65. This route reinforced my perception that Maryland is a very clean place.

Brad and Judy south of the Mason-Dixon Line

By blind luck, 65 took us right by the Antietam Battlefield, the site of the deadliest one day battle of the Civil War. We toured the Visitor Center but, after a talk with a very pretty ranger named Holly, I realized I would have to come back for several days to explore the whole place.

One of the Antietam monuments

Entrance to the Battlefield Visitor Center

Laurie, Ron, Brad, Judy and Sandy man a cannon

Antietam National Battlefield Visitor Center

Sandy's pretty little feet

From the battlefield, we followed Md 65 to Md 34 and into West (By God) Virginia. At one stop sign, the fellow ahead of us was driving a Porsche Boxter. Unfortunately, as he pulled forward, he stalled the car. I guess we shouldn't have laughed so loud because he then proceeded to burn rubber out of there in (I assume) embarrassment.

The Boxter escapes to the right

Leaving West (BG) Virginia, we connected with Virginia 611 and then Va 7 which took us to Winchester. Some back roads only a GPS user would follow brought us to the motel.

We unloaded and then went across the street to the Asian Garden Buffet. One good sign at a Chinese buffet is a table of people speaking Chinese and using chopsticks. $8.95 bought us a fine buffet with the usual fare plus a few more exotic things like octopus and sushi. We figure we did quite well there. After supper, we stopped at Red Lion for some water bottles There I saw a lottery ticket vending machine. Different.

Lottery ticket vending machine

After we got back to the hotel, Ron and Laurie joined us for some song comparisons. I gave him all the Tom Lehrer runes I had. Then everyone turned in for the night because tomorrow we start the twisty road riding.

Flip texted me while we were at the Red Lion. I called him back and said I would keep him posted on when we'd be down in North Carolina. If possible, we're going to try to hook up while we're down here.

Today's Route


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Apropos of Nothing

Just a note to my American friends. A PetroCan gas station in Grimsby had a sign saying that US credit cards would not work for paying at the pump. The young lady told me they could be used to pay inside and that this was standard for all PetroCan stations. Having to pay inside at US stations requiring a Zip Code to be entered, I know how frustrating this can be.

Also, I got a note from Solo in Colorado Springs. It seems Steve is still riding on the plug I put in his tire in Kentucky and doing fine. It's nice to know that the kit works as advertised, or even better.

The Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania

We started slow today since we would just be riding around the local area. The first order of business (after the Dunkin' Donuts black coffee) was breakfast. Just up the street was the quaint Wellsboro Diner. The place was full so we got sent downstairs into the gift shop to the 'round table'. Lots of room. Sandy and I were good and had the fruit bowl and coffee. Ron had a regular breakfast and a cinnamon bun that was so large that he couldn't finish it.

The gang outside the Wellsboro Diner

Have camera, will travel
Laurie & Ron

Once we were fed, we headed out for Leonard Harrison State Park with Ron in the lead. Just out of town on US 6 West, we took SR 660 which wound its way all the way to the park on the east rim of Pine Creek Canyon (aka The Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania).

Stowing the gear at Leonard Harrison State Park

Admission was free and we took in the canyon view from the first observation deck.

Pine Creek Canyon looking north

Pine Creek Canyon looking south

Then we got the bright idea that we would walk down the Overlook Trail. It was quite a way down along the canyon rim and Ron took a moment to test his control of his fear of heights. Although you can't see it in the photo, there is a better than 100 foot sheer drop just beyond his toes.

Ron living dangerously

At the bottom, we cam to Otter View, a nice perspective on the canyon.

Judy photographs the canyon from Otter View

What she is photographing

Now, as we all know in the tourist world, what goes down must come up. Way up and steep too. Laurie, strangely, can go up much better than she can descend.

Sandy and Laurie taking a break on the climb while Ron stands

Checking out the old incinerator near the trail head

Sandy and her new friend
(a memorial to the CCC workers during the Great Depression)

Leaving the park, we went back to Wellsboro to fuel up and then headed north on US 6 (aka The Grand Army of the Republic Highway), SR 287, then west on 249 to Kerryville and northwest on SR 4017 to 49 at Osceola. From there it was west again on 49 through Knoxville to Westfield. On the way, we were lucky a car was ahead of us as a doe and fawn tried to cross the road from a farmhouse yard. Disaster was averted and the deer backtracked but, without the car, we probably would have been on a collision course.

The doe and, at the right edge, Bambi

Old farm buildings

Odd home in Westfield

Bill & Molly's in Westfield

In Westfield, we stopped at Bill & Molly's Restaurant for lunch. This was one of those odd places where the server was fun and the food was good. Brad decided to try a 'Texas hot', something we saw listed a few places. To quote one website:

"Try our Texas Hot - with a recipe that dates back to 1914, it's tried and true! A plump, juicy hot dog with a squirt of mustard, sprinkled with onions, and smothered with our famous sauce."

Brad's 'Texas Hot' lunch minus a bite

He said they were very good. The rest of us tried more familiar fare.

From Westfield, we headed south on SR 349 and then back east on US 6 but took a detour to check out the west rim of the canyon at Colton State Park. The road to the park is narrow and winds in here making this park the road less travelled. There are campsites and overlooks but no Visitor Centre. On the way up, we passed what looked like a Sur-Trac snowmobile trail groomer in a maintenance yard.

The Colton view of the Leonard Harrison overlook

The same using the 10x zoom

The scenic tower on the Harrison side

Looking south down the canyon from Colton

From Colton, we returned to US 6 and then turned onto SR 362 where we found two stage trucks belonging to the Rascal Flatts Unstoppable Tour parked at the intersection. They were supposed to be playing Darien Lake New York on June 11th and Scranton Pennsylvania on June 12th. I assume these were the Scranton trucks being hidden away here for a few days.

Rascal Flatts Trucks

From here, we headed back towards Leonard Harrison SP to Animaland. The admission was a bit steeper than we wanted to pay even to see a mountain lion. Instead, we had ice cream and visited with a one-eared kitty on a table.

Animaland

Laurie eating muddy sneakers while we had root beer floats

The one eared cat

From Animaland, we returned to the Sherwood and kicked back before going over to thee Wellsboro Steakhouse for a fine supper. After that, there was a bit of trip planning and then we turned in for the night.

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Waterloo Ontario to Wellsboro Pennsylvania

Sandy and I were up at 6:00 AM but didn't knock on Heather and Tom's door until 7:00. The early temperature showed as 8C but that was supposed to rise quickly. The hour gave me a chance to finish yesterday's blog and post my bills to Quickbooks. There was a quick stop a Zofia's to get the Suzuki's and then another at McDonald's for breakfast before hitting the road.

On the way through Cambridge, we stopped to see Jolene (and Kim & Mike, of course). She is 6 1/2 months old and is starting to get teeth.

Jolene and proud poppa Mike

Jolene, Mom and Grandma

Jolene and Aunt Heather

Mike's Jolene pictures, for anyone who is interested

We left Cambridge at 10:15 with Heather & Tom under blue skies, riding Highways 8, 5 and 6 into Hamilton. Highway 6 down the hill is still under construction. It seems like this is another 'forever' project. At the bottom of the hill, we caught the 403 to the QEW and over the Burlington Skyway. The temperature, warmer than we are used to, cooled a bit near the water. I stopped at a service place in Grimsby and fueled while Sandy went inside to remove her long underwear. She also stowed the electric jacket. Heather and Tom left us here, planning to work their way back to Waterloo via back roads.

Back on the QEW, I picked up the pace to flow with the fastest traffic. Through St. Catherines and over that skyway, there is some major road construction going down so we were slowed to a crawl in a few places but not for long. Then it was on to Fort Erie and the Peace Bridge.

The bridge traffic was light but there were still six or eight vehicles lined up for each booth, except the NEXUS lane where there were only three. This would be our first time using the actual special lane and we weren't sure how it would go. It went very well. As we approached the booth, Sandy held up both cards in front of a scanner. The LED indicator said it had read two cards. Then we pulled into the booth where the agent asked my licence plate number. Then he asked if we had anything to declare and I said no. At that, he told us we were good to go. Easy as anything.

It was not totally trouble free, however. Pulling out of the booth across the plaza to the I-90 South ramp, Sandy dropped one of the NEXUS cards. I stopped and it's a good thing the headset cables pull straight out because they did as she jumped off the bike and dodged traffic as she went back to pick up the errant card. Luckily, although a car straddled the card, nobody actually hit it with a tire.

We skipped around Buffalo on I-190 - I-90, 400 and 78 to 20A East. This was a pleasant road wandering through the countryside at 45 mph. There was more up and down than side by side. Several ridges had large wind turbines on them.

Wind Turbines on Highway 20A

One thing did impress me. We met an oncoming ambulance with lights and siren going on the two lane road and everyone pulled to the right and stopped. That is the way it should be done.

Warsaw New York is in a valley. They have a mandatory brake check for trucks, buses and trailer haulers before starting down the grade into town. I guess they don't want a 30,000 Pounds of Bananas episode here.

We went on through Mount Morris, home of the old Rochester Peacemakers Lost Weekend rallies in the 1980's. Then we went past Groveland Correctional Facility which had a number of separate complexes, each with their own buildings, towers and razor wire.

Now we were supposed to get on I-390 South but the ramp was closed and we were detoured a number of miles down the road to the next interchange. We rode 390 to where it ended and continued on I-86 to Painted Post New York. Back in 1978, we got stuck in the infamous Painted Post traffic circle, not sure which exit to take because someone decided that highway numbers weren't necessary. The exit we wanted said Williamsport but I didn't know this because it was in the next state on the next map. This time, the new US 15 ramp wasn't in the GPS and I got screwed up again. As Yogi said, deja vu all over again.

Riding south on US 15, we encountered a stretch of two lane road but it was back to four lane by the time we reached the Pennsylvania line. This was new as well and the GPS thought we were going cross country again. This really seems to bother her. I need to get a map update soon. We followed 15 to SR 287 which took us to Wellsboro. On the way, we saw an osprey and a scenic railroad.

Tioga Central Railroad Photo for Bob

We arrived at the Sherwood Motel just before 5:00. The others weren't here yet so we checked in and found our room right in front of the pool. This is a nice place and I'd stay here again. Sandy's only beef is that the peephole in the door, as in most motels, is too high for her to see out. Ron called soon after we got here and said they would be in about 6:30. They actually arrived about 7:00 which was pretty good because Brad just finished the repair work on his BMW LT this morning. they rolled in behind a large group of Harleys from Ohio heading for New England.

Rabbit on the Sherwood Motel Lawn

After the late arrivals got settled and cleaned up, we walked down Main Street to the historical Penn Wells Hotel where the dining room closed at 8:00. It was 7:45 and they seated us. Some of the food was unusual, but perhaps the chef had already gone home. The desk clerk, however, was a hoot.

After eating, we walked back to the Sherwood and the girls turned in while the guys looked at some maps and tried to figure out where we might be going. It will become clear to us in the fullness of time. Or not. I retired at about 10:30.

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Sudbury Ontario to Waterloo Ontario

Happy Fourth of July to all our American friends and relatives.

Today is the start of the wandering trip through, possibly, North Carolina and North Georgia. We're not really sure. We're meeting Brother Bear, Brad and the ladies in Wellsboro Pennsylvania tomorrow. Today, we ride to Waterloo.

We were up at 5:00 AM doing some final chores. The packing was pretty much an afterthought. It's amazing that, when you do it enough times, it becomes routine and everything falls into place. Sandy was surprised that the saddlebags weren't that full, leading to a run over the mental checklist to see if we had left anything out. Double checks of the medications, credit cards and the identification documents to get into the US were important. Pretty much anything else can be picked up en route.

Despite a leisurely pace, we left the driveway at 9:30. After a stop at the in-laws to see visiting friend Diane, we were out on the road at 10:00. A couple of miles out, Sandy asked if I had put the phone on call forward to the cell. OK, I can't remember everything. This oversight wasn't worth going back for. I'll just have to check the voice mail from time to time. Or not:-)

It was an all right day to ride. The blue skies and sun were good but the 16C temperature (around 60F for the Celsius challenged) was a bit cool and the wind was strong and gusting. Welcome to July in the Frozen North. On the plus side, when I checked the forecast for Maggie Valley North Carolina they were calling for thunderstorms on Sunday and then clear and upper 70's for the next two weeks. I know this can't really happen but I remain the eternal optimist.

We weren't very far south of town when the pickup truck I was following at 110 KPH had to slow because we had caught up to a slower vehicle. At the reduced speed, I had time to look around and was examining a new stretch of four lane construction off in the bush when there was a thump and the bars were jerked sideways in my hand. I instinctively leaned on the throttle and the bike righted itself as I looked in the mirror to see what I had hit. I don't know what kind of roadkill it was but, from the shape of the largest piece, it looked like a nice fat raccoon. I think, from the size of it, that I only hit the edge. That will teach me to pay more attention to the road.

From Sudbury to Parry Sound along the mostly two-lane Highway 69, the traffic was heavy. Southbound, there were the occasional drivers doing the speed limit or below. Because passing was difficult with the long lines of northbound vehicles, sooner or later pretty much everybody was in line behind the slow movers. This is why I pass any traffic I can out in the open. Then, when we get to the lines, I am able to pass more quickly and more often and being ahead reduces the number of vehicles I need to get around in tight circumstances.

Some of you might ask why I need to go faster than the slowest car on the road. First, tight gatherings of frustrated drivers are dangerous. Second, because I can:-) One beef I do have has to do with passing lanes. Some following drivers hang back so that, when you get to the lane, you need a long fast run just to catch the slower vehicles up ahead. Other drivers speed up in the passing lane and are a real hazard because, after limiting the number of vehicles that can get by them, they slow again on the two-lane and frustrated drivers following them sometimes take greater risks to try to get by. In any case, a feel for the traffic flow and some situational awareness would prevent most people from doing things like this.

Approaching Nobel, we were routed onto the new section of road. Nice pavement but, with the large rock cuts to the west side, I can only imagine the drifting snow swirling through here off Georgian Bay come winter.

New Highway 69 north of Nobel

We had lunch at McD's in Parry Sound and noted all the sport bikes. This, it turns out, is the weekend of the Parry Sound Sportbike Rally. This longstanding event draws crotch rocketeers from all over North America. We also noted that the McDonald's has streamlined its counter process, vastly speeding up the way orders are handled. Fast food is fast again.

On down around Waubaushene and Barrie, the temperature was still in the 17C range and the crosswinds were getting nastier. Once again, the whole idea of Global Warming seems ludicrous from where I ride. We went on down Highway 400 all the way to CR 88, and then went west through Beeton on over to Hockley. It was a dry Saturday and there was only one bike at the Hockley general Store. Strange. I did note that, from Hockley to Airport road, the pavement seemed messy like there had been a lot of heavy equipment on it. I hope they don't screw up one of the best bike roads in the area.

Coming into Waterloo on Northfield Drive, we passed a group of horse riders heading out on a trail ride. Western saddles and helmets. What ever happened to the good old days of stetsons or, like real cowboys, ball caps? I know, insurance companies......

We arrived at Heather and Tom's shortly after 3:00. Heather was out but Tom was home. He loaned us the car to go to Mark's Work Wearhouse in search of warm weather gloves for Sandy. While the ones I like only go down to Mens Small, which were too big for her, there were some nice ladies gloves in bright, cheery colours. She is now wearing a very pretty shade of blue.

Don't tell anyone but I wiped the bike down before covering it. About then, Heather got home from doing wedding preparation things and Tom took us all to his Mom's for supper. Zofia fed us and, as always, the food was excellent. Then Heather napped while Tom and I watched the NASCAR race from Daytona and Sandy and Zofia talked mother-in-law things. Thanks for the supper and hospitality.

We got home about 11:00 and turned in right away.

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Kudos to Sudbury Boat & Canoe

I got a call last night from our friend Mo at Kickstand Lodge down in North Carolina. Some friends of hers from Georgia were staying there but their 19 year old son Ryan was on a graduation motorcycle trip and had broken down in Sudbury. The bike had a broken throttle cable and the word was that the dealer wasn't being very helpful.

Ryan was at the Super 8, so I called him and got, as Paul Harvey says, 'the rest of the story'. He's riding a 65o Suzuki V-Strom. He broke down on Canada Day and CAA took his bike to Sudbury Boat & Canoe on Long Lake Road. Yesterday, SBC didn't have a cable in stock, was told they were back-ordered and couldn't find one after calling other dealers. All in all, the whole situation looked pretty bleak.

Not being an expert on cables, I phoned for help. Gord, as usual, was right there. We agreed to meet at Gonga's next to the Super 8 this morning at 8:30 to see Ryan and look at possibilities. Everyone was on time and we had breakfast while wondering if we could swap push and pull cables or use a similar cable, even if it was a different length.

Without feeling much optimism, we headed over to SBC where Laurence ( a former member of the Sudbury Trail Plan Board at the time I was on the executive) told us they had the situation under control. A new 650 V-Strom had arrived and they would pirate the throttle cable from it. Suzuki had promised Laurence that he would have a replacement cable by next Wednesday. So it all turned out for the best without any heroics on our part.

Laurence and Ryan settle the bill

Ryan on the road again

Kudos to Sudbury Boat & Canoe and Suzuki Canada for going the extra mile to make sure this young man gets home with his bike.

Ryan tells me that after the rain in New England and the breakdown here, he's about ready to go home. He's leaving early tomorrow and riding to the Soo. From there, I-75 will take him to Valdosta, Georgia, right near where he lives.

Getting Ready Again

The bike is serviced and I just changed the oil and filter. We'll be off Saturday for a Sunday meeting with Ron (aka Brother Bear) & Laurie (from New Hampshire) and Brad & Judy (from Massachusetts) in Wellsboro Pennsylvania. We're not exactly sure where the roads will take us but the North Carolina/North Georgia mountains are looking good, perhaps using parts of the Blue Ridge Parkway going down and visiting the Carolina coast on the way back.

We rode with Ron, Laurie and Brad two years ago on the West (By God) Virginia wander and had a great time. This should be more of the same.

On another note, I found a site that lets people make maps of where they have ridden. It's . My maps look like this:


There are still a few places we have to go.

Happy Canada Day