Maggie Valley North Carolina to Hendersonville North Carolina

Today, after getting packed, we were on the road at 8:20. We needed to pick up the last few miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway, so we rode out US 19 and caught it just south of town. It was a pleasant ride and we could now say we ran the entire Skyline and Parkway in one trip.

Riding through Cherokee on US 441, we saw more painted bears. These types of painted critters are becoming quite common around the country.



Cherokee bears

We headed south on 441 and then along 74 to Dillboro. At Dillboro, a slow driver we had followed the last mile out on his right turn signal as I was beside him in the exit lane. the Wing horn made him have second thoughts. From Dillboro, 441 (The Appalachian Highway) took us towards Franklin. We stopped at the Ridgecrest Exxon for a bathroom break and coffee and snacks. Some locals and a short, wide State Trooper were gathered around a table drinking coffee and smoking indoors. It's amazing how a sight like that seems out of place these days.

The Ridgecrest Exxon

In Franklin where I forgot to cancel the via point and got a tour of downtown. Then I missed two turns so we also got the scenic route out of the area. We left Franklin on US 64 as it clouded over. Or maybe under since it seemed we were right in them. We turned south on SR 175 and the rest of our group got their first exposure to Georgia as we approached Hiawassee.

We caught US 76 to Blairsville and went south on US 19 (this highway seems to be everywhere) to 180. This road, west to Suches, runs through Wolf Pen Gap, a run that I find nastier than The Dragon. For anyone who hasn't been here in a while, that disconcerting double row of cat's eyes has been removed. The summit involves a 10 MPH left turn with nothing but a sheer drop if you don't make it. Ron and Brad were towing the trailers and made the run just fine. I'm ready to pronounce them veteran southern riders.

At Suches, Two Wheel Only was packed with bikes so we didn't stop. We rode down SR 60, a winding stretch overpopulated with tar snakes. Then we turned on US 19 north (how we do get around) and passed the Georgia Patrol keeping the roads safe. They had one pulled over and a second cruiser trapping. We followed several back roads and entered Helen Georgia from the northwest, with a few drops of rain falling about five miles before town.

Traffic entering Helen was stop and go so as soon as I saw a restaurant with a parking lot, I pulled in. Hofer's of Georgia has a back lot that would make the Magnetic Hill proud. With the angled surface, a car parked badly and my little finger mashed under the clutch lever, the bike fell over. A kind man came over and pulled the kickstand down as I picked it up using the approved technique.

Picking it up the right way
(Photo by Judy)

Hofer's food was pricey but good, My melted ham and Swiss with honey mustard was fantastic. leaving the lot (carefully), a truck towing a trailer stopped and let us out as a group. The traffic jam seems to be due to people turning left and horse drawn buggies

A buggy in Helen

We left town heading southeast and rode into South Carolina with a rain storm descending from the west behind us. Although I had this checked on my state map, I can't remember when I was here before so I have confirmed my claim. We rode northeast with Hendersonville, North Carolina as a goal. After a water stop in Westminster, SC, the trip back to North Carolina and Hendersonville was uneventful except for (this is becoming a pattern) some rain drops about ten miles before we got to town. It was 90F as we worked our way through town and the Wing heated up again. I had to stop on Wolf Pen Gap because it was almost in the red.

We got rooms at the Days Inn and I looked at the airflow through the radiators. When hot, the fan blows air forwards. It appears to me that the foam tunnel blocks, wrapped around the forks to keep air and rain from coming up on the rider, were blocking the air flow and trapping hot air in the scoop area, eliminating flow through the rads. These block aren't Honda's idea and so I have pulled them out to see if it makes a difference.

For supper, we walked down the road to Outback Steak House. We passed Schroader's Honda where they had a showroom with 21 GL1800's and 8 used GL1500's on the showroom floor. I've been there before for a new tire. These guys push volume. We will stop and see them tomorrow morning. On the way to The Outback, Ron collected a tick that he brushed off. The rest of us checked our legs closely.

At the steakhouse, Ron was given a vibrating thing-me and we sat outside. When it buzzed and we went in, the girl asked "Where have you been, Ron?" Then she wondered if anyone had asked him "Where have you been all my life?" The girls in H'ville are friendly, if nothing else:-)

Supper was good. I skipped the alcohol because I needed to get blogging again. Back at the hotel, that's just what I did until about 12:30. As of my writing this, I am all caught up.

By the way, to show how GPS's work, Ron told his to avoid Interstates and major highways and take him home. It routed him trough Des Moines Iowa, Duluth Minnesota and Ottawa Ontario. I will state again that they are an art, not a science:-)

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Dragon Day

The skies were mostly blue with a few clouds over the mountains. We'd be staying another night in Maggie Valley so the Uni-Go trailers got unhooked and parked on the porch. I spoke to Flip down in Greenville, South Carolina yesterday and he was headed our way to ride with us today. I figured he would probably be in about 9:00 AM.

We walked down to Country Vittles, a place you can have an 'all you can eat country style' breakfast. This is like a breakfast buffet that they bring to you. We decided to order a la carte instead. We were just finishing as Flip arrived, wondering why northerners walk to breakfast. Flip only moved down from Michigan last year, so he knows all about 'northerners'.

We got away from Maggie at 10:25, heading over US 19 to Cherokee which consists of miles of downhill curves. The cars ahead of us were doing better than usual but I could still smell scorched brake pads. Cherokee was surprisingly quiet for a Saturday.

Sandy gets another kudzu picture

We continued on 19 to Bryson City and then took US 74 and SR 28 to Kickstand Lodge, where we found Mo and met Bobby. We checked out the new plumbing facilities by the office building (Yea) and showed everyone the place. TJ even, just by luck, stopped by with his brother.

Mo Flip and Ron relax at KSL

From KSL, we headed up NC 28, also known as The Hellbender. From Stecoah to Fontana Dam, this consists of consistent sweeping curves up and down the ridges and is a pleasure to ride because of the rhythm you get into. Flip rode ahead and we followed. I caught two Harleys from Florida who were struggling. Unknown to them, I wasn't in a big rush to pass since we were taking it easy. Still, one pulled over at an overlook to let us pass. We took the side road down to the dam as a cloud threatened.

The Fontana Dam is a regular stop on this loop. I talked to the volunteers manning the information desk and then met a man visiting from Colombia who rode Harleys down there.

View from Fontana Dam

We left the dam and rode back to 28. Showing how local things can be, the pavement on 28 from the stop sign where we turned in was soaked. The obviously heavy rain missed us by a quarter mile and, if we hadn't stopped at the dam, would have caught us square on. We have incredible luck. The last part of 28 climbing to Deal's Gap Resort is a little more challenging with some 20 MPH corners but the Dragon novices did well. Traffic on the road was surprisingly light. Arriving at the Resort, there were more bikes than I have ever seen in the parking lot.

Deal's Gap Resort Parking Ron at the Tree of Shame Group Dragon Photo

After getting some water and (fore the newbies) buying some shirts, it was time to slay The Dragon. Flip went first, carving the corners with the car tire on the back of his Nomad. We followed at a more sedate pace. I remember the fear and trepidation I had the first time I headed up the hill into the gap. I still get butterflies but in a good way. Ron admitted feeling the same thing because of the reputation the place has. We took it easy and they did just fine. We were passed by three serious sport bikes to show how it is done.

We stopped at the overlook where I turn around and took a break before heading back. It was very hot at this point. Starting back, I had a fluke happen in one left hand curve. My boot dragged and forced my toe up cause an accidental shift into third mid-corner. I have to keep my feet up on these roads. Part way back, we got stuck behind a line of cars following a car from Tennessee who though 17 MPH was the right speed. Amazingly, this person pulled into the Deal's Gap Resort and a whole line of bikes who had their run ruined pulled in behind him.

The Overlook on The Dragon Dog Day Afternoon Line of slow cars

We didn't stop but continued on down US 129, known as the Mini-Tail to the bottom where we turned left across what Flip called the Fugitive Bridge and saw the Cheoah Dam, made famous in the movie The Fugitive with Harrison Ford.

Cheoah Dam

From here, 129 becomes a series of sweepers along a river and then sweeping turns over some mild hills as it leads into Robbinsville a vast change from what we just came off. I had planned to take a ride through the Joyce Kilmer Forest and up the Cherohala Skyway a ways but we were behind schedule and the heat and humidity were brutal for us northern folk. Instead, we rode 129 almost to Robbinsville and stopped at the Skyway gas station for a pit stop, fluids and snacks.

Flip riding 129 along the river The Skyway gas station

From here, we decided to run straight back to Maggie so we went into Robbinsville and took 143 over to 28. At the turn, an older man in a car didn't bother to stop for a red as I was turning and almost occupied the same space I did. I stopped and, suddenly, so did he.

On SR 28 just before US 74 be got stopped in a licence check run by Sheriff's deputies and State Troopers. The pretty deputy who checked my licence was surprised to find an Ontario driver. Ron ever heard her go back to her partner and say "I just got one from Ontario". It made me think of all the times I had stopped and checked snowmobiles the same way.

Scrutinizing my driver's licence

As we rode up four lane 74, black clouds loomed on the horizon. Rather than taking the chance of getting caught in traffic and rain on US 19, I stuck to 74 all the way to Waynesville before we stopped for fuel and swung back up to Maggie valley. Flip left us at the gas station and headed back to South Carolina. It was great riding with you again, brother. Thanks for coming up to see us.

Flip ready to head home

We stayed dry but Flip got dumped on on his return trip. So far, we have led a charmed life with the weather. Back at the motel, we got changed and walked to Arf's Restaurant for supper. I had two margaritas which rendered me unfit for doing any blog or bill work.

Sandy attacks a strawberry daiquiri at Arf's

Back at the motel, we met a couple, Kelly and Debra, from Macon Georgia. Debra was a real live wire and told us about how she liked to fry food. Kelly was her new husband but she was a grandmother (you'd never know it) with more twins in her family than we have. We talked routes, bikes, food and family. It was a pleasant evening. We all turned in before too late because we'd be heading out tomorrow.

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Boone North Carolina to Maggie Valley North Carolina

It was quite foggy in Boone when we got up but there was no precipitation forecast until afternoon. We had breakfast at the hotel and spent some time talking to the Soucys and the Kilgours. They are nice folks and I hope their vacation went well.

The Soucys

The Kilgours

The fog started to break and we continued on the detour until it took us back up onto the BRP. Other than some slow Harleys at the Viaduct, we didn't encounter anyone going our way for a while. Eventually, though, we caught up to a short line following a car with the licence plates of a retired US Navy officer. He was tooling along at about 25 MPH in a 45 zone. Right behind him was the red Wing from Ottawa.

Slow bikes on the Viaduct

Slow line into a tunnel

The Ottawa wing following the slow sailor

When the retired Navy man finally pulled over, the Ottawa wing picked up the pace to a brisk 35. I could see he was about at his limit in the corners and showed no sign of waving us by so, as soon as I had a corner I could see through, I passed him. I then radioed back that the road was clear and the others followed. They said he didn't seem pleased to be passed. Lead, follow or get out of the way is my motto up here.

Further on, we encountered some more fog for a ways. I lead carefully, again with the flashers on.

Fog on the Parkway

Our trip up to the summit of Mount Mitchell, the highest point in the US east of the Mississippi was by accident. I got a call to watch for bathrooms and saw a sign indicating there were some up the road on the right. After a climb up a winding road, we found them at the State Park ranger station. By then, we were only two miles from the summit so on up we went. It was cloudy but not raining at the top.

State Park entrance

Ron at the summit parking lot

Judy on top of the world

We met a couple from Montreal riding BMW's at the summit. Then we went back down a little ways to the restaurant for lunch. We met the Ottawa wing rider but he didn't seem happy to see us. He'll learn. After we ate, Ron fixed the angle on his rear brake pedal while I tightened his loose cruising peg.

Cheery lunch crowd

Ron wrenches

I took this photo for Sherm

We continued on down the Parkway passing by Asheville. Near the highest point on the BRP, Sandy got stung on the cheek by something. At the highest point marker, we stopped and Ron dug out some steroid cream and ice from his cooler for her face. While there, we met the Montreal couple again.

Sandy's wounded face

Highest point on the Blue Ridge Parkway

We ran on down to the lower levels while the skies got more threatening. We also encountered more traffic which slowed us down.

Threatening skies

Line of slow vehicles

Sign warning motorcyclists of curve

We arrived at the Applecover Inn in Maggie Valley in rain but it soon stopped and the pavement started to dry. We unloaded and then went over to the Garlic Knot pizza place across the street. Then it was back to the motel where Derek, the owner, had a fire going outside. We sat and we talked about many things including local Maggie Valley politics with a lady former councilor. I was the last one in our group to hit the room and that was about 11:00.

Ron relaxes at the Applecover

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Buena Vista Virginia to Boone North Carolina

The day started with overcast skies and 64F temperature. The radar showed light rain to the south but it was breaking up as we watched. There appeared to be a more serious system southeast of Asheville but we weren't going there today.

Brad says a prayer to the BMW gods

We fueled and were rolling by 8:30, taking the wild climb up to the Parkway on the super-elevated curves of US 60. Once on top, it appeared we had the Parkway to ourselves. The first comfort stop was at the Peaks of Otter visitor center. There are a lot of things here named for otters. The first thing we saw there was yet another deer in the parking lot.

Stopped at the peaks of Otter

From there, we continued on down along the ridge. At some points, you could see down both sides into two valleys at the same time. There was road construction down near Roanoke for about fifteen miles. In one narrow stretch, two slow Harleys from Pennsylvania were reticent to pass a pair of bicycles even when they were waved around. Eventually, they pulled off and we picked up our pace again, running along at about 50 MPH. The overcast started to give way to patches if blue.

Sandy photographed the blue sky above us

A scene from the Parkway

And another scene

Kudzu vines covering a tree

One of the stone Parkway bridges

The only wildlife we saw were a pair of wild turkeys walking across in front of us and one I saw in my rear view mirror that flew across behind Brad. I have a healthy respect for these birds ever since one flew into the side of Sandy and I in Pennsylvania.

Near Mabry Mills, we came up on four slow Harleys who didn't seem to understand the etiquette of letting faster riders past. They continued on when we stopped at the Mills for lunch and a free sample of black cherry preserves.

Slow Harley group southbound north of Mabry Mills

Ron and Laurie sample the black cherry preserves

From Mabry Mills, we continued south. In a tight turn, I heard Judy cheering because she had dragged her boot. That's the right attitude for a passenger to have. We fueled at Fancy Gap and Ron, despite the trailer, took 4.08 gallons compared to my 4.06. Pretty good mileage for towing.

Now in North Carolina, the overcast returned and the skies started spitting on us. We stopped at the Doughton facility and talked to a northbound BMW rider headed for the BMW rally in Johnson City. Mark and John would be there. This fellow was also at Kickstand Lodge for the last two Fred's Birthdays. We also said hello to a couple from Ottawa on a red GL1800.

It started to spit a little harder and we ran in some fog where Ron tells me all he could see were my four way flashers. I could barely make out oncoming traffic until it was beside us. There was a detour down off the Parkway on 221, a new one from the last time I was here. It took us into Boone where we decided to call it a night at a Fairfield Inn.

The Massachusetts couples, Don Kilgour, Jim Soucy and their wives, who we met at our first stop on the Skyline were there as well. Jim makes Harley accessories. They are paralleling our run to Maggie Valley but are not confining themselves to the Parkway.

We walked over to the Fort Christopher Seafood & Steak restaurant for supper. The young server tried to tell us Boone wasn't named for Dan'l. I looked it up after and he was wrong.

The Fort Christopher

That's one big lobster

After dinner, I got some blogging done. It's a slow process and I didn't get it all caught up.

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